Posts by condiosz

    Hi,

    Yes, I had a sensor not sending API http calls when it was actually blinking when triggered.

    However, I then repeatedly started trying to connect to it over and over again, and after fineish like attempts, it finally responded. After that, the sensor started sending the signals again through http calls to my server.

    So it seems accurate that the device is actually in some kind of passive 'sleep' mode, even though the led's on the device signal motion is triggered, it is not sending out the requested http url.

    To be continued... :) (with follow-up update)
    BTW, it is also true this did not occur with previous firmware version on the device.
    I am not sure, however, how I can revert the device to a previous version of the firmware, as this site does not list the firmwares for the motion (I believe - at least, last time I looked).
    Thank you for your assistance in this matter, and providing the path forward.

    Hi, in my experience it takes longer than 24 hours for the problem to occur.
    It seems to occur only after a week - maybe two.

    In that sense it is not too alarming, if it weren't for the fact that because I cannot connect to it on WiFi, I use the pin to re-activate the device. But that then essentially resets the device to factory settings.

    When and if it occurs again (I had it happening once on every device since I received them), I will try the 'connect test', where one claims after 5, 6 attempts to connect with the URL, the device actually starts responding again. I cannot tell if this works or not.

    I'll provide my findings when possible.

    Thanks!

    Thank you for the info, Alex. As usual, I'm sure a firmware update will fix this, later on, then :)

    But I didn't know, so thank you for the info!

    Hi,

    Would there be a way to force a Shelly-Motion to re-connect to a WiFi network, after it disconnected?
    All I know how to do is to re-initialise it (by using the pin hole), but I was wondering if there was a 'reboot' pin hole sequence,

    without factory reset?

    Thank you for your help.

    Yes it works. My whole house is set up like this. I have no conventional switches left in the whole house, and all switches can hence also be activated by the app.
    Also, the wiring in the switches has been replaced by very thin wire, because almost no current is needed to go through the switches.
    The TL also has a 4 wire version, I use that one, because then the I3 can read the status of the TL (open/closed).
    It just requires a large cabinet and a lot of electrical wires. But then, that is the cheap part :) :)

    1.9.6 doesn’t appear to be much better, as it didn't provide smooth and regular dimming between 0 and 100.

    Dimming went up & down over the 0-100 range, but inconsistently (70% was much brighter than 80%, for example)(after trailing edge calibration).
    I went back to 1.8.2, where everything was just right (for me). Calibration in my home doesn't work well.
    I have Aiwode SMD-GU10-D lights in each room, about 7 lights per room. Every room has a dimmer.

    Mine doesn't have a lux issue, but I agree I also would like to have the option to have '0' seconds, and have a signal every single time a motion event occurs.

    Also, I was charging mine, and charging, and charging... 24 hours long. Manual said orange/reddish light would go off next to USB, but it never went off. After 24 hours, I finally decided to activate it anyway, and hey, battery was 100%. Another one, I activated first, then started charging, and said light did go out when battery was shown at 100% in the interface.
    Small funny things :)

    It is well in the limits, yes. That doesn't mean it will live a long life...

    There are peak currents and so forth.

    Anyway, at these levels sparks should not be a surprise and hence it is (in my humble opinion) much better to use heavier gear than that very tiny switch.

    But if you like it... by all means. It's only my opinion.

    So, going through several threads I learned:
    - RGBW2 now has 2 firmware updates. You must choose for either color or white.

    - Firmware updates are sitting at

    For Color:

    http://repo.shelly.cloud/firmware/SHRGBW2-color.zip

    For White:

    http://repo.shelly.cloud/firmware/SHRGBW2-white.zip


    Download these firmwares from the above links.
    Then, when ready, use your own httpd server to allow local upgrade of the firmware:

    curl --user name:password "http://x.x.x.x/ota?url=http://y.y.y.y/shellyfirmware/1.9.4/SHRGBW2-color.zip"

    where

    - x.x.x.x is the ip of your shelly,

    - y.y.y.y is the ip of your httpd server,

    - username and password for your shelly device, needed only when set in the device


    And behold, the RGBW2 device is again detecting OTA shelly updates ! :)
    (see attachment)

    This confirms to me OTA shelly.cloud firmware mechanism changed somewhere, during the lifetime of these devices. With this trick, you can hop back on the official OTA update wagon.

    Thank you so much - again to Seven of Nine ! :)

    My issue is completely solved
    (though you might want to consider putting the fw back up in the firmware archive? :) )

    Hi,


    I am experiencing some strange behaviour with (most of) my RBGW2 devices, in that they see no update available.
    All are configured the same way. I even put internet DNS to 8.8.8.8 to make sure they have DNS.
    All have internet access (as shown because NTP is correctly working).
    As there is currently no alternative way to put the firmware on these devices (it seems this is a two step process),
    would anyone also have experienced this, and maybe have a solution to allow upgrading them?

    Thank you for reading this.

    Shelly Type: ShellyVintage

    Device Mode (if Shelly Type is Shelly 2.5): -

    Firmware Version: 1.9.0

    Router or AccessPoint: Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-HD

    Static IP or DHCP: Static