Posts by Guzzi-Charlie


    Yes, I agree. This comunication at the refund "Invoice" is not really good.

    They explained some time ago at the english facebook group the reason for that. There are significant delays in mass production start and some technical issues and because of this it takes more time. Therefore they decided to refund all orders and after a new delivery date is confirmed they will put it back into the store and you can place a new order.

    I'm sorry, but such touch switches which took the N-potential over the load (bulb) are not compatible with Shelly (not out of the box). If you have an electronic switch you'll need a version which has its own power supply terminals "L" AND "N"and maybe a relay as output. This is the same problem you'll have with many motion detectors.

    The point of the "dry-contact" (in conjunction with the thermostat) is that the Shelly "SW" input mostly does not work correct with electronic Signals (not routed via a dry contact), is the same problem with some motion detectors.

    So, if your thermostat has a dry contact to switch the power (coming) from the boiler back to the boiler in case of boiler request then you can connect this wire to the "SW"-input of the Shelly 1. The Output "O" of the Shelly 1 you connect to the clamp where the thermostat wire was connected before.

    Additional you need to supply the "I" terminal of the Shelly 1 with power. Easiest way would be a jumper from the "L"-terminal of the Shelly.

    I think he is going to connect a Shelly 1 with "I" and "O" in parallel to an existing switch and/or to the garage door lifter control unit. Additional he has/like to install a Reed-contact to identify wether or not the garage door is closed. This contact shall be connected to the "SW" input of the Shelly.

    In general this should be possible but I never have tested this and:

    • The button type at the Shelly settings need to be set to "detached"
    • You will not be able to operate the Shelly with a physical switch but only with the APP or any other overall automation system.

    Answer to your first question:

    • The function of the UL listed version and the non UL-version are 100% identical.
    • The difference is an alternative subsupplier for the terminals which were already UL listed.
    • And a different subsupplier for the housing because of the same reason, but with that I'm not 100% sure about..

    Your second question:

    I have no knowledge about that rules, sorry.

    With a Shelly 1/1PM it should be possible. Maybe you could make a measurement of the peak-current during switching on the boiler (if you have multimeter with peak-hold function) before.

    That was my suggestion from the beginning,

    but again:

    In this case you need to connect everything to the breaker of your socket because the Shelly 2.5 does not have clean relais contacts!

    Another solution could be to use only th N from your socket circuit, but only if the N from the socket is the same as for the fan circuit. Anyhow this would be a case for a professional electrician to check out the correct connections because I don't know how the rules for installation in your country are and if this is possible. Maybe you have two-pole breakers which disconnects L und N together Then it's not possible/not allowed to mix N from two circuits.


    I'm not sure if you understand correct what Stefan explained.

    If you have two different breakers for the socket and the fan switch you cannot use a Shelly 1PM. The only possibility is to use one (for one speed only) or two Shelly 1 (to be able to switch both speeds on) because only Shelly 1 has clean relais contacts.

    1. You need to supply the Shelly 1 from your socket (L+N).
    2. Even the power supply for your switch has to come from the socket breaker.
    3. The output of the switch for speed 1 you have to connect to the SW of the first Shelly 1.
    4. The output of the switch for speed 2 you have to connect to the SW of the second Shelly 1.
    5. Then you connect the power supply for the switch (from fan breaker) to the Input (I) of both Shelly 1.
    6. The wire for speed 1 (to the fan) has to be connected to the Output (O) of the first Shelly 1
    7. The wire for speed 2 (to the fan) has to be connected to the Output (O) of the second Shelly 1.

    But you need to be aware that in this case you have no interlocking of the two speeds of your fan by using the APP or browser interface.


    yes you can use a Shelly 1PM for switching of one of the two speeds of your ventilation system. And yes you need a power supply for the Shelly L and N. You only need to check carefully with an multimeter if the socket and the switch are connected to the same phase/breaker. But don't forget 230V are very dangerous and if you are not familar with this please call an electrician to do this work for you.

    Nevertheless I would recommend you to use a Shelly 2.5. Then you could operate both fan speeds AND maybe could use the Shelly in roller mode with interlocking between the two speeds.