Posts by Guzzi-Charlie

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    So, you was faster. In this sketch you also have two wires to the motor, so I guess my estimation is correct and the original controller relay acts as a pole changing relay too.


    The drawing with the Fibaro module is identical to the one with Shelly 2.5, only the Shelly does not have dry contacts at his inside relays. Therefore you will need to add those additional coupling relays (or use two Shelly 1 instead).

    OK, let's start new.


    At your sketch in post #5 you show a connection of 3 wires to the motor (white, green and brown), but in sketch #14 you show only 2 wires to the motor. I'm almost thinking we are working on a totally wrong base.


    If the motors are only connected with 2 wires (black and red) to the relay then I think this relay has two functions. It acts as an isolating relay between the two motors and additionally it provides a pole changing function for the DC motors.


    In this case the only way to use a Shelly 2.5 is to follow the wiring as SebMai shows at post #6 (with additional relays for decoupling the Shelly from the existing equipment. There is only one other solution to avoid these additional coupling relays. You could use two Shelly 1 instead because Shelly 1 has integrated a relay with dry contact. But in this case you don't have the look and feel of a roller shutter in the APP.

    Sorry, but we are discussing two different things. Important is what potential has the common wire at the motor? If this is "+" potential (equal to the current white wire at the switch) then the UP/DOWN commands need to be "-" potential and then my suggestion is ok. And for the switch the potential doesn't matter. You even can connect the "-" potential to the switch (according to my sketch).


    But I already wrote that the sketch of captain is not complete. As long captain doe not post a correct and complete sketch and additional information nobody can give correct support.

    @SebMai

    Please ckeck my sketch carefully. The switch switches "-" to the Shelly device, the shutter motor is supplied with "+" and the Shelly switches "-" to the Up/DOWN inputs of the motor. In this constellation you don't need any additional relay's!


    But this could be clarified only by Captain because obviously there is something wrong/missing in his first sketch. If anything is different to my assumption, then the design need to be checked again.

    Hello Captain,


    as SebMai already stated the power supply of the Shellys at DC is vice versa then with AC, so "L" in AC is "-" in DC and "N" in AC is "+" in DC. And therefore you should follow the manufacturer design and mark the wires in the same manner.


    But I don't understand your sketch. For me there is something missing. There is a connection from the switch (P) to the motor (L). I guess you mean "+" in this case, but from where this is supplied?

    I guess it is like this, isn't it?
    pasted-from-clipboard.png

    If yes, this should be the correct connection diagram and in this case you would be able to use a Shelly 2.5 without additional relais.

    Hello Cyril,


    WELCOME TO THE FORUM


    As Stefan already stated: The standard way would be to connect the output of the push button to the "SW"-Input of the Shelly and the "O"-Output of the Shelly to the impulse relay. Anyhow, even your suggestion would work, but you would not see at the Shelly App if someone switched on the Lamp via the push button.


    The most professional way would be to substitute the impulse-relay by the Shelly. You don't need it anymore. All current functions can be realized via the Shelly itself.

    Hello Tualua


    WELCOME TO THE FORUM


    You can put the CT-clamp before or behind your main breaker. This makes no difference. I would recommend you to use a 50A CT. As 66er already stated in real you will/should never reach the 50A. Therfore the 50A-CT is sufficient and you will have a more precise measurement if the CT is operated within the last third of the measurement range than in the first third.

    Hello rubenmlll,


    WELLCOME TO THE FORUM


    I cannot recommend. In general the Shellys have some problems with inductive loads. I had some problems exact with such types of lamps. One (18W) was connected to a Shelly 1PM and the other one (2x 18W) was connected to a Shelly 2.5. Very often the Shelly hangs and was not reachable anymore. Only a power off could solve the situation. And after some days the same problem occurred again.


    After I exchanged all lamps by LED tubes the problem was solved. It never happens again.


    Even another 1PM were a halogen lighting with a conventional transformer was connected to had the same problem. Sometimes it was not possible to switch on/off. Another time it switches the light on/off by itself.


    After installing an electronic power supply even here all problems were gone. Never happens again.

    Hallo Shellby,


    ich weiß jetzt auch nicht wirklich wie man Dich noch weiter unterstützen kann. Es sind alle Möglichkeiten genannt wie Du es machen könntest. Du mußt Dich nur für eine Variante entscheiden. Wenn Du den einfachsten Weg des Austauschs der Motoren nicht gehen willst, dann mußt Du Dich eben mit den anderen (aufwendigeren) Varianten auseinandersetzen. Der Einsatz von Shellys macht eigentlich in Deiner Konstellation gar keinen Sinn weil Du die Vorteile der Shellys ohne Austausch der Motoren überhaupt nicht nutzen kannst.


    Den Fehler hast Du wohl vor 3-4 Monaten gemacht als Du Dich für Funkmotoren entschieden hast. Offensichtlich hast Du Dich damals nicht gründlich informiert.

    Hallo Shellby,


    Du mußt nicht "ALLES" tauschen, nur die reinen Motoren.


    Dazu mußt Du nur folgendes machen:

    • Die Rolläden ganz runterlassen
    • Die Aufhängefedern ausklipsen
    • Die Rolladenwelle ausbauen
    • Den Motor herausziehen
    • Den neuen Motor einschieben
    • Alles in umgekehrter Reihenfolge wieder zusammenbauen
    • Den Shelly zwischen die Zuleitung und den Motor anschließen


    Wenn Du allerdings nur eine 3-adrige Zuleitung zu den Motoren hast, dann müßte der Shelly in den Rolladenkasten.


    FHEM war hier nur als Beispiel gedacht (weil ich es einsetze), aber man kann natürlich auch jedes ander System, wie ioBroker, NodeRed, Homematic, etc. verwenden. FHEM ist das universellste System und damit kann man fast alles einbinden, aber es erfordert sicherlich auch die größte Einarbeitungszeit (schwierig wenn die Zeit ohnehin knapp ist). Andererseits gibt es für FHEM auch die größte Community und das Forum ist riesig. Trotzdem dauert der Einstieg in FHEM mindestens Wochen, wenn nicht Monate. Am Ende wird man aber mit riesigen Möglichkeiten belohnt.

    Hallo Shellby,


    WILLKOMMEN IM FORUM


    • Deine (Funk-)Motoren mit Shelly zu erweitern wird nicht möglich sein.
    • Am Einfachsten wäre es die Motoren zu tauschen. Einfache mechanische Motoren kosten gerade einmal 30-50€.
    • Wenn Du ein übergeordnetes System hättest (z.B. FHEM) könntest Du auch die Befehle der Shellys dorthin einbinden und dann den Funkbefehl an die vorhandenen (Funk-)Motoren vom übergeordneten System senden lassen. Das erfordert allerdings schon etwas mehr Kenntnisse und evtl. einen Funksender als Bridge (z.B. eine Sonoff RF-Bridge, geht aber nur für 433MHz), oder ein passendes Funk-Gateway das per UDP-Befehl übers LAN angesteuert wird. Das ist aber alles aufwendig, zeitintensiv und damit eher etwas für "Profis".